IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER

• Working on any roof can be dangerous. You should take every safety precaution possible and always use extreme care while working on the roof.
  
  
• Use common sense while working on the roof. Let someone know you are up there – or better yet, work with a helper.
  
  
• Use a ladder that is high enough and strong enough for the job you are doing. Secure the ladder at the top and bottom before climbing it.
  
  
• Use extreme caution when working near power lines, conduits or TV antennas. Never touch them or allow a metal ladder to come in contact with them.
  
  
• Never start a roofing job in cold or wet weather. Also, allow early morning dew to disappear before beginning your work.
  
  
• Wear heavy, rubber-soled shoes with a non-skid tread to prevent slips and avoid wearing loose clothing.
  
  
• If the roof slopes more than a 6" rise for every 12" horizontally, use roof brackets and boards to provide extra footing support. Place all tools and shingles within easy reach and where they will not slide off the roof.
  
  
• Keep the roof surface clean and free from loose nails and shingles. These can cause you to slip and fall.
  
  
• Keep people away from below the area where you will be working.

DETERMINE THE MATERIALS NEEDED

• Roofing shingles are sold in "squares." Most asphalt shingles are baled together with three or four bundles per square.
  
  
• First, measure the length and width of each area of the roof. For each area of the roof, multiply the length times the width. Then add the results for the total square feet of shingles needed. Measure all dormers and extensions.
  
  
• Divide the total square footage by 100 and purchase that many squares of shingles.
  
  
• Purchase an additional 10 percent of the number of shingles for cutting, waste and starter courses and to save one bundle for future repairs.
  
  
• You'll also need about 2-1/2 lbs. of roofing nails for each square of shingles. Use hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails, either 11- or 12-gauge with a 3/8" diameter head, or follow the shingle manufacturer's recommendation for the type of nails to be used.
  
  
• Use 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" nails for new roofs, or 1-3/4" nails for reroofing or repairs.
  
  
• If you are starting a new roofing job, or a complete reroofing project, you'll also need enough 15-lb. roofing felt to cover the entire roof area underneath the shingles.
  
  
• You'll need roofing cement for edges, flashings and ridges.

SELECT THE SHINGLES

• There are many types, styles and sizes of asphalt shingles.
  
  
• Your selection process should begin with the type and grade of asphalt shingle needed for the type of building. Some factors to consider are the purpose of the building, the slope of the roof, local weather conditions and the design, style and size of the structure.
  
  
• The exposure for each type of shingle is usually specified by the manufacturer. However, for most common shingles, a 5" exposure is standard.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

• You can successfully lay asphalt shingles over any existing roof. However, if there are more than three layers of old roofing on the structure, they must be removed completely before applying new shingles.
  
  
• Make any necessary repairs to the roof structure before beginning the reroofing project.
  
  
• Drive down or remove any loose or protruding nails.
  
  
• For reroofing jobs, renail any loose shingles and replace any missing shingles with new ones. (See the upcoming repair section).
  
  
• If you're applying new shingles over old wooden shingles, nail them securely and use feathering strips for a smooth appearance.

HOW TO REPLACE DAMAGED SHINGLES

• Making repairs to an existing asphalt shingle roof is easy when you follow these step-by-step instructions.
  
  
• Use a small pry bar to pull out the nails holding the damaged shingle. Remove both the nails and the shingle.
  
  
• If you cannot reach the nails, use a sharp linoleum knife to cut away the damaged shingle.
  
  
• Always try to replace the damaged shingle with one similar in weight, size and color.
  
  
• Apply asphalt roofing cement to the back of the replacement shingle before putting it into place.
  
  
• After positioning the new shingle, nail it down with 1-3/4" roofing nails.
  
  
• Position the roofing nails so they are covered by the shingle above. For extra protection against leaks, apply a small amount of roofing cement to the nail heads.

FIG. 1 - Use caution when laying shingles in the roof valley. Prepare the area properly to prevent leaks.

FIG. 2 - Lay shingles to the edge of the chalk lines.

LAYING SHINGLES IN ROOF VALLEYS

• A roof valley is formed where two roofs join at an angle. You must be careful when shingling in this area – an improperly laid roof valley can easily develop leaks.
  
  
• Valleys should be covered with a mineral-surfaced, roll roofing material (Fig. 1).
  
  
• First, place an 18"-wide strip or metal flashing down the center of the valley, from the eaves to the top of the ridge.
  
  
• Nail this material down on the outer edges only, making sure that it stays flat in the valley.
  
  
• Place roofing cement along each edge.
  
  
• Next, lay a 36"-wide strip of the roofing material down on top of the previous strip, and nail its outer edges.
  
  
• Snap two chalk lines down the edge of the valley. Start at the ridge, with the lines centered in the valley and 6" apart. As you move down the roof, spread the lines apart, about 1/8" per foot, down to the eaves.
  
  
• Now you're ready to apply shingles. Lay them down to the edge of the chalk lines, and cut them to fit (Fig. 2).
  
  
• Place the end of each shingle in roofing cement to seal it before nailing it into position.
  
  
• Do not nail shingles closer than 6" to the chalk lines.

APPLYING NEW ASPHALT SHINGLES

• Applying new asphalt shingles on a complete roofing job or on new construction requires a layer of 15-lb. roofing felt over 5/8" plywood sheathing.
  
  
• Each course of the roofing felt should overlap the preceding course by at least 2" to provide adequate weatherproofing protection.
  
  
• Staple the felt underlayment into position, starting at the edge of the eaves and extending up to the roof ridge.

FIG. 3 - Use a chalk line to mark the exact center before starting the asphalt shingles.

FIG. 4 - The first shingle is placed at the exact center, directly on top of the starter strip.

FIG. 5 - Drive the nails straight in.

FIG. 6 - Continue applying the shingles to the end of the roof in both directions.

STARTING THE SHINGLES

• First, locate the exact center of the roof and mark it with a chalk line.
  
  
• Next, install a starter strip along the bottom edge of the roof. Many manufacturers offer a special starter strip; however, if you don't have this strip, you can cut the tabs off the shingles and use the shingles to form a starter strip. (Fig. 3).
  
  
• The starter strip should project out over the eaves and the gable end by about 5/8".
  
  
• After the starter strip is in place, again locate the exact center of the roof and mark it with a chalk line.
  
  
• Center your first shingle on the chalk line–directly on top of the starter strip–and nail it into position (Fig. 4).
  
  
• Use four nails in each shingle, located in the position shown in Fig. 5. Always drive the nails straight in and never at an angle, as they could cut the shingle and cause leaks.
  
  
• Place the nails about 5-5/8" up from the bottom of the shingle.
  
  
• Each succeeding shingle should bump up against the center shingle. Continue applying the shingles to the end of the roof in each direction (Fig. 6).

INSTALLING ADDITIONAL COURSES OF SHINGLES

• After the first course of shingles has been laid on top of the starter strip, snap down a chalk line at the manufacturer's specified exposure, usually 5", to aid in applying shingles.
  
  
• Continue snapping down chalk lines until you reach the ridge of the roof. This simplifies the job of laying each succeeding course of shingles in a straight line.
  
  
• Start the second course of shingles on top of the first course. Place the cut-out over the center of the middle tab on the center shingle.
  
  
• Remember, a shingle cut-out must never fall directly over another cut-out in the row immediately below it.
  
  
• Continue placing shingles in the second course to the end of the roof in each direction.
  
  
• Start at the center of the roof for the third course of shingles. Again, place the cut-out over the center tab on the preceding row, and continue to the end of the roof.
  
  
• Follow this procedure until you reach the ridge of the roof. Then start on the other side of the roof in the same way you started the first side.

FIG. 7 - The flashing must extend at least 6" around the edge of the vent pipe. Use asphalt cement to seal the edges.

FIG. 8 - Cut a hole in the shingle that goes over the vent pipe.

SHINGLING VENT PIPES

• The easiest way to finish around vent pipes is to purchase a vent pipe boot that slides down over the vent pipe. It consists of a rubber gasket and metal flashing. If you do not have a vent pipe boot, follow these directions.
  
  
• Place mineral-surfaced roofing material or metal flashing around the vent pipe before laying any shingles.
• Cut a square of flashing material with at least 6" of edge around the vent pipe (Fig. 7).
  
  
• Cut a hole in the center of the flashing that's large enough to fit over the vent pipe. Coat the bottom side with roofing cement, slip it over the vent pipe and nail it into position.
  
  
• Lay shingles up to the vent pipe, completely covering the edge of the flashing material. Set the ends of the shingles in roofing cement.
  
  
• Cut a hole in the shingle that goes over the vent pipe, apply roofing cement to the bottom and nail it into position (Fig. 8).
  
  
• Repeat the procedure on the next course of shingles if they, too, overlap the vent pipe.

FIG. 9 - Fit the flashing around the chimney base, then cement and nail it into position.

FIG. 10 - Apply shingles to the chimney edge. Then seal and nail into place.

SHINGLING AROUND CHIMNEYS

• Place mineral-surfaced roofing material or aluminum flashing around the edge of a chimney before shingles are positioned.
  
  
• On older roofs, you can use the old flashings for a pattern. On new roofs, use Fig. 9 as a guide for cutting the flashing.
  
  
• Fit the new flashing around the base of the chimney, then cement and nail it into place.
  
  
• Cut flashing strips into pieces measuring 7" x 10", then bend them in half to 7" x 5".
  
  
• Place these flashing strips against the chimney, seal the edge with roofing cement and nail into place.
  
  
• Apply shingles up to the edge of the chimney, seal the edge with roofing cement and nail the shingles near the edge of the flashings (Fig. 10).

FIG. 11 - Always start at the eaves when applying hip shingles. Each course should be continued around the roof.

FIG. 12 - Apply hip ridge shingles before applying the main roof ridge shingles.

FIG. 13 - Use two shingles to start the run on the hip ridge.

SHINGLING HIP ROOFS

• Each course of shingles applied to the hip roof should be continued around the roof (Fig. 11).
  
  
• Trim each shingle to the angle of the hip ridge.
  
  
• Use regular hip shingles or cut standard shingles (three-cut)to cover the hip ridge.
  
  
• Cover the hip ridge before the main roof ridge (Fig. 12).
  
  
• Start at the eave and apply hip shingles at the same exposure as the main roof.
  
  
• Use two shingles to start the run on the hip ridge (Fig. 13).
  
  
• Use four nails per shingle and leave no nails exposed.
  
  
• When placing the last hip shingle on the main ridge, seal it with roofing cement and nail it into position.

Ask for Other "Show-How" Instruction Sheets
Additional easy-to-use instruction sheets for home do-it-yourself projects are available from your local supplier of materials. Come in and ask for "Show-How" instructions when you get ready for that next handyman project!